1. Communication Issues

• Make sure the power cable is securely plugged into the adaptor.
• Make sure the adaptor light is a steady blue light and it is plugged securely into the Skycut.
• If you still cannot get the Skycut powered on, contact your dealer.
• Press and hold the power button until the light shuts off.
• Set the Skycut close to the router when performing the initial setup presented in Section 1.12.2. After establishing communication, you can test how far the Skycut can be located from your router.
• In SignMaster’s Vinyl Spooler window, under the Connection tab, make sure you have selected TCP and entered the same IP address you selected during setup on the Skycut’s control panel:
• Make sure your computer is connected to the same router as your Skycut.
• Verify that SignMaster is the selected software on the control panel under Set>Sys Information.
• Unplug/replug the USB cable at both the computer and at the Skycut.
• In SignMaster’s Vinyl Spooler window, under the Connection tab, make sure you see USB Port and the Status says Device Connected. If not, repeat the instructions.
• Try a different USB port on your computer.
• Verify that SignMaster is the selected software on the control panel under Set>Sys Information.
• Try a different USB cable.

2. Operating Issues

• Press control panel icons with your finger and not your fingernail. You can also use a black rubber stylus.
• Make sure the control panel is clean.
• Two pinch wheels need to be gripping the mat. Move the mat either left or right so that it is under two outer pinch wheels and the pinch wheels are aligned under white arrows. Refer to Section 1.09.
• Make sure you are not trying to force the blade to cut too deeply and/or too quickly through a thick/dense material like chipboard or craft plastic. Slow the speed, decrease the Force, and add more passes.
• Even if you feel the vinyl is aligned properly at the start of the cut, a slight “out of alignment” error will become more pronounced with a long cut. When you first drop the pinch wheels, use the arrow keys to feed the vinyl for the length of the cut to make sure it is feeding straight. If not, then about half-way through the length of the vinyl needed, lift the pinch wheels and realign the vinyl. Continue testing the alignment until you can verify that the vinyl is sufficently aligned for the entirety of your project.
• The pinch wheels need to be over grit shafts (the dark gray rough areas along the revolving shaft. The white arrows will help you align the pinch wheels in correct locations. Also, use outside locations versus having, say, one pinch on the far right of the vinyl and a second pinch wheel only in the middle.
• That can be a symptom of forcing the blade to cut too deeply and/or too quickly through the chipboard. Slow the speed, decrease the Force, and add more passes.
• Make sure you have calibrated the Skycut’s camera. The procedure is covered in Section 3.03.
• On the control panel, go to Set>Camera and press Set. Make sure the Auto PNC option is marked.
• If using the cutting mat, make sure the printout is aligned fairly straight on the cutting mat and the mat is fairly straight in the cutter.
• Make sure the blade holder is over the lower right registration mark when starting the cut.
• Are the registration marks printed dark with no streaking or missing ink?
• Did you make any changes in the Contour Cutting Wizard after printing and before trying to cut?
• If the Skycut stops with the head over on the left side of the cutter, you have most likely exceeded the cutting range. Several things to consider:
   Check the width (W) of your project (or the height H if in Landscape mode). It cannot exceed 16”.
   Check how far you are moving the head to the left when setting the origin. If your project is 15” and you moved the head more than 1” to the left, you will send the cut out of range and the cutter will stop.
• If the Skycut stops and the head is not located near the left side:
   Make sure it’s not a communication issue.
   You may have exceeded a buffer limit. Try reducing the number of nodes. Select the shapes and go to Curves>Node Editing>Reduce Nodes (Object).

3. Cutting/Drawing Issues

• When setting the origin, make sure you are using the tip of the blade as the reference point and set the tip inside the corner of the material (not too close to an outside edge).
• Verify that the preview window in SignMaster matches where you expect the shapes to cut as you view the material loaded into the Skycut itself.
• Make sure you raise the pen (or blade holder) in the blade holder seat on the Skycut before tightening the screw. The blade holder seat needs to be able to drop the tool down when it reaches the spot to start the shape. Otherwise, the tool tip will be dragging across the material from the origin to where the shape will begin and then back to the origin at the end of the “cut”.
For perfect corners when using a pen, go to the Send to be Cut window and select Pen Mode so that Blade Offset is set to 0. You do not need an offset for pens (or other tools like embossers and engravers).
• Make sure the blade holder housing doesn’t have any bits of material inside of it.
• Make sure the screw on the blade holder seat is tight so that the blade holder isn’t slipping upwards during the cut.
• Make sure the cutting mat is clean and sticky and the material is pressed down completely, so that the material remains stabilized during the cut.
• Make sure the blade isn’t cutting too deep into the mat. This can sometimes cause the material to be pulled up and away from the mat as the blade releases from the plastic it is cutting.
• Try increasing the cutting force by ~ 5 – 10.
• Try raising the blade holder in the blade holder seat. If the blade is too close to the material, not enough force is being applied. Refer to Section 2.01.3, Set the Blade Height Above the Material.
• Make sure your material is pressed firmly onto a clean and sticky mat (assuming you are cutting a material such as paper or cardstock).
• Your material may require two passes if it’s not homogenous or if it is heavily textured. Sometimes intricate shapes also cut better with two passes.
• Also, if the material has been exposed to humidity, then it will become difficult to cut in one pass. You can dry both paper and cardstock using a blow dryer or in a very low-temperature oven.
• If you are cutting vinyl without a cutting mat, check the cutting strip to make sure it is still in good condition.
• Taping the edges prevents shifting of the chipboard but it’s not enough for stabilizing. You need to thoroughly press the entire surface of the chipboard onto a clean and sticky mat. Using a brayer is recommended.
• A number of things can cause tearing so work through this check list:
 Too much blade is exposed. If you see cut lines in your mat or the backing sheet, shorten the blade exposure. You should only be cutting through the material itself.
 The blade is chipped. Try a different blade.
 The paper is not adhered well to the mat. Make sure the mat is clean, sticky, and the paper is pressed smoothly and evenly on the surface.
 You may be using too much cutting force. Try reducing it and doing test cuts.
 You may have too many nodes in the shape. Select the shapes and go to Curves>Node Editing>Reduce Nodes (Object).
 The material itself may be subject to tearing, especially on intricate cuts. Also, if the cardstock has been exposed to humidity, then the moisture in the material can make it difficult to cut cleanly. You can dry paper and cardstock using a blow dryer or in a very low-temperature oven.
• Verify that you are using the correct Blade Offset.
• Try slowing down the cut. Small lettering needs slower speed.
• Perform the calibration procedure shown in Section 2.08.
• Make sure you have set an appropriate Overcut setting.
• Make sure the mat is not skewing during the cut. This can happen if even one of the pinch wheels is no longer centered under a white arrow. It can also happen if the speed and/or pressure is set too high.
• Please refer to Section 1.07.3. It’s important to only have as much blade exposed as is necessary to penetrate the cardstock. You may also need to raise the blade tip height (Section 2.01.3). Reduce your force back to suggested values for the material you are cutting and do a test cut.
• Do not use more force than is needed. If the cardstock is cutting through about 90% of the cut, then turn on Multi-Cut. Some cardstocks do better with a second pass at a lower force.
• This is called “drift” and can sometimes be corrected by slowing the speed and making sure the cuts aren’t so deep that the blade is causing some drag to occur.
• An alternative solution is to add intermediate registration marks. Refer to Sections 3.08 and 3.09.2.